Thursday, July 22, 2010

In which Sapphire returns from camp

Not much news actually. Sapphire arrived home safely just before 7:00 this evening, though we had to wait for half an hour or so for the luggage truck to arrive. She had a wonderful time.

There was apparently a lice outbreak at camp while she was there, but she didn't catch them. However, she was lice shampooed (as were all of the campers) and got to have her hair carefully combed out section by section to make sure that she didn't. According to her, she was the one who spotted little white specks moving around in someone's long black hair and notified the counselors.

The cook's made an enormous cake for her birthday with pink and white frosting, and the directrice of the camp gave her a lovely purple ring shaped out of a piece of coated wire.

She got far more mail than anyone else at camp, and the other kids were fascinated by the fact that her letters were in English. (Since I got a grand total of 3 letters, I suspect that she did not send far more mail than anyone else at camp.)

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

In which Sapphire is at camp

Sapphire left for camp early on the morning of Monday, July 5th. Since that time, I have been huddled in a panicky ball in the corner of my bedroom, hoping that she somehow manages to make it safely home.

OK, that isn't true. So what have we been doing?

Well, the day that Sapphire left, Blaise had to go to a talk in Paris. Once he was done with the talk, he called us and the kids and I took the train into the city and met him in the Marais. We had dinner at l'As du Fallafel, which is perhaps the most famous falafel restaurant in Paris. After dinner, we walked to the Place de Vosges, where Cherry and Ezio played in the sandbox until a couple of teenage degenerates decided that it would be fun to have a sandball fight. Then we headed over to the slides and bouncy toys for a while.

Tuesday, the kids and I went to the playground for a while, and picked blackberries in the woods at the Parc des Epivans. Then we went to the American Library to check out our last complement of books, at least until we return to Paris, because our membership is going to expire on the 25th of July, and it doesn't make sense to pay for a renewal given that we're leaving the country on the 5th of August.

Wednesday we actually didn't do anything, except go to the playground and play soccer outside on the grass.

Thursday the kids and I went to the Parc Floral to play on the playground. We also wanted to go to the butterfly house, but discovered after we got there that it wouldn't be opening until 1:30, so we decided to stay until then. Unfortunately, I didn't bring lunch, since I figured that we'd play until we got hungry and then take the bus back home to eat, so we were reduced to eating ice cream bars from the snack stand when we got hungry around 12:30. The butterflies were very pretty though, and so well worth the wait.

Friday, a few of Cherry's friends came over for a combination farewell and birthday party. Blaise took Ezio into Paris to the Galeries Lafayette, and they spent a couple of hours wandering through the toy department, largely because the major department stores are all air conditioned. I meticulously planned all sorts of games and activities for the party, and then the kids spent the entire two hours playing with PlayDoh and Duplos. It was with great difficulty that I dragged them away so that they could eat their cookies and drink their juice.


Saturday, we (all of us) went into Paris to the
Cimetière de Montparnasse, where we searched for famous peoples' graves: Simone de Beauvoir, Jean Paul Sartre, Henri Poincaré, Baudelaire, Porfirio Díaz, and a few others. Then we wandered around the area by the Tour Montparnasse until we found a reasonable looking (and not too terribly touristy) crêperie, where we had galettes, hard cider, and crêpes for lunch. Afterwards, we headed to the Jardin Atlantique, which is a Parisian park built on top of the Gare Montparnasse. The kids played on the playground until it started to rain, and Blaise and I talked and listened to the announcements floating up from the train station.

Sunday, we went to the Musée de l'Air et de l'Espace in Le Bourget, to the NE of Paris. After a few adventures getting there (the first bus line we tried to take wasn't running, the second didn't actually stop at the RER station but instead stopped a couple of blocks (and a couple of turns) away), we spent close to 5 hours at the museum. I can now say that I've been inside a 747 (and seen a car in its cargo bay), a Dakota military transport, and not one but two Concordes. Unfortunately, none of them were airborne. We also saw lots and lots of planes from WWI and WWII, and some very interesting attempts at flight from the end of the 19th century. Then we tried to go to some really nice bookstores in Paris, but they were closed, so we bought pastries and ate them in the gardens at the Musée du Cluny.

Monday we had friends of Blaise's over for dinner.

Tuesday, the kids and I went to Fontenay sous Soleil, which is a set up by the city of Fontenay to provide an opportunity for those who aren't leaving over the summer to participate in various summer activities. Ezio and I played badminton. Ezio and Cherry jumped on the trampolines. The kids played in the giant sandboxes (complete with lots of really cool sand toys). We all ran through the sprayers. That evening, we watched the fireworks display from our balcony. Cherry was so excited about watching her first ever fireworks show (that she was actually awake for) that she refused to get up to use the toilet during it. And she was sitting on my lap. Fortunately, we have a washing machine.

Wednesday was rainy, and so we stayed in most of the day. We did watch the Bastille Day parade on television, but that was about the most ambitious thing that we managed.

Thursday evening we went into Paris to go to the bookstore which we had tried (and failed) to go to on Sunday. Ezio and Blaise looked at the bandes dessinées (comic books) and Cherry and I looked at the picture books. Then we all looked at the cookbooks, but we didn't get anything. Next, we walked over to the Église Saint-Gervais Saint-Protais. Unfortunately, they were doing restoration work, and there was a service in progress, so we were unable to do more than stick our heads in the door and look around a little bit. Afterwards, we stopped by a bakery for bread and then had a dinner of bread and plums and water in the courtyard of the Église Saint Medard. Finally, we walked over to the Arene de Lutece and watched the petanque players until it was time to go home.

Friday, we spent a few hours at Fontenay-sous-Soleil. Since we were there later in the day, the Ludotheque station was set up, and the kids spent a long time playing at the water station, and then driving cars on the town mat. We also played some badminton and thought about playing petanque, but there didn't seem to be any marker balls available to start the game with. Once we got home, it was time to set up for dinner, since we had some Notre Dame graduate students coming over to eat with us. Strangely enough, one of them was a Calvin grad, so we played a little bit of Dutch bingo. No matches though.

Saturday we went into the city and went to the Parc de Bercy and then to Bercy Village. Ezio convinced Cherry that the bubbles in the water were caused by the crocodiles that lived there. We walked through Bercy village, which is really just a mall, sadly enough. (Bercy used to be where most wine entered Paris, via barges on the Seine. Alas, it is no longer.)

Sunday was Cherry's birthday (and Sapphire's too, of course, but she wasn't there to celebrate it). We started out by going back to Sadahuru Aoki for macarons, which we ate in the Jardin de Luxembourg. Then we found a little garden with sandboxes and wading pools, where my children had a splashing battle with a little French girl, which resulted in three extremely wet children, though I, fortunately, only had to deal with two of them. We wandered over to the bassin, where children sail little boats, and watched for awhile. I debated renting a boat for the kids to use, but as it seemed as if all one did was put it into the water at one end of the bassin and then fish it out again at the other (repeat until your time is up), that we would probably get just as much enjoyment out of watching other people sailing their boats. Then the kids and I headed over to the playground while Blaise found a shady spot to sit and people watch. Afterwards, we stopped at Pierre Hermé for a very fancy (and very expensive) birthday cake: a gigantic rose, litchi, and strawberry macaron.

Monday we headed to Parc Disneyland with José, a friend of Blaise, and his family. José and his family and Ezio and Blaise started the day at the studios, where Ezio got to, at last, ride the Rock and Roller Coaster (he's finally 120 cm). In the meantime, Cherry and I went to the Magic Kingdom (since she's too short to ride almost everything at the studios) and rode Buzz Lightyear, and the Storybook Boats, and Small World, and the Carrousel, and wandered through the maze. After we all ate lunch together, Blaise and José and José's oldest daughter rode Space Mountain while the rest of us rode the rockets (which I do not like). Then we split up again until dinner, this time by family. After dinner, we went on Autopia and then they stayed for the parade and fireworks, and we headed home.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Message from camp--July 13


Weather: Fair
Dear parents.
Yesterday it rained, but the sun came out.Today, a group went camping and others have gone on the catamaran.We will make key chains and eat ice cream on the beach.Yesterday on the catamaran there was not enough wind to move the boats.It was a nice day, apart from the lack of wind.
We hope you're well.We send big kisses. Until Thursday for more news.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Message from camp--July 12

Weather: Beautiful

Hello, dear parents.
Everything goes well here, unfortunately it is gray and the start of camping has been postponed due to the weather.
Yesterday we had a great game on the theme of children's rights and we have invented great songs on this theme.
Last night we watched the final of World Cup soccer on a giant screen and others watched a movie at the center.
Today we are going to go on the catamarans and do some craft activities are at the center.
Tonight we have a barbecue.
Thinking of you, big kisses to all.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

In which Sapphire and Cherry say goodbye to their friends

Both Sapphire and Cherry wanted to have parties for their friends before school got out, both to say goodbye and because they have summer birthdays. Ezio was given the option of a farewell party as well, but he hasn't really made any good friends while we've been here (he had kids to play with at recesses, but he never really hit it off with anyone at school), and so when we gave him the option of doing something fun in Paris with just a parent and no siblings instead, he jumped at the chance.

Since so many French families leave town for much of the summer, we wanted to schedule the parties for the last part of the school year, and, of course, they needed to be on different days. Since the last day of school was July 2nd, that meant June 26th for Sapphire's party, and June 30th (no Wednesday school) for Cherry's. Sapphire really, really, really wanted to make her invitations herself, so she took note cards and decorated them individually for the four girls that she wanted to invite: two from her CLIN class, one from her mathematics class, and one who she's just become close friends with at recess. Then we typed the invitation, printed it out, and she glued the invitations to the backs of her note cards to give to her friends at school. Her two French friends, Samantha and Léa, immediately said that they would come, but her friends from CLIN were less certain. (The CLIN class pulls in kids from a fairly wide area--only about a third of the kids actually live in Fontenay-sous-Bois--and so it is a bit more of a project for some of them to come into town.) Ultimately, neither of the CLIN kids were able to come, but the Samantha and Léa arrived as expected.

Since we were billing this as a farewell celebration rather than a birthday celebration, there was no cake. Instead, Sapphire and I mixed the dough for cutout cookies earlier in the day and let it chill while we all went outside and played games. I learned the French names for hide-and-seek (cache-cache), red light, green light (un, deux, trois, soleil!), charades (mîmes), and tag (chat). (Actually, I already knew the first and the last because we'd played them with French kids before, but the other two were new names to me, and to Sapphire as well.) Then we headed inside, and I rolled out cookie dough with a vinegar bottle and the kids cut out shapes with knives and then sprinkled colored sugar on them with spoons. Then we slipped them in the oven, and once we had baked most of the dough we all had cookies and milk. By that time it was almost time for Samantha and Léa to be picked up, and so Sapphire opened the goodbye presents and then the buzzer sounded and we all said goodbye.

Since Cherry was a lot less pushy about getting invitations out (Sapphire would have sent hers in March if I would have let her), and I am nothing if not a procrastinator, Cherry's invitations didn't go to her classmates (actually, to their mothers, since she was only inviting four kids) until two days before we were having people over. Then, Wednesday morning when we were at the playground, I noticed a funny bubbly looking spot on her forehead. By lunchtime it was twice as big, and she said it really hurt when I touched it, and so I called the pediatrician and asked if I could have it looked at. Of course, the time slot he offered (and I wasn't confident enough in my French to ask for a different one) was smack in the middle of the party time. Since I wasn't sure whether what was going on might be contagious or not, we ended up meeting all of her party guests at the door and telling them that instead of having a party we were going to the doctor. Safia was leaving for vacation the next day, and Katarina ended up not showing up at all, but Colleen and Nathan's mom said that they wouldn't be leaving for vacation, and that they would be able to come sometime the next week, after school was out for the summer. She needed to check her calendar, but we exchanged phone numbers, and a couple of days later she called to confirm that Friday, the 9th, would work for them. I called to tell Katarina's mom.

Then, much to our surprise, we saw Safia and her mom at the carrousel outside of the Auchan on Thursday afternoon, and so we invited her to come over on Friday as well. Blaise took Ezio to the Galeries Lafayette, where they looked at all of the stuffed animals and Lego and Playmobil and everything else in the toy section, and then went upstairs and looked at all of the sirop and the 5 kg jars of Nutella. Cherry and I sat out on the front step of the building and waited for her friends to show up. Colleen and Nathan showed up (a little bit late) followed by Safia (not Katarina, which didn't surprise me too much) and Aurore (the twins' mom) and I and all the kids headed up to our apartment (Safia's mom left to spend some quality time with Safia's sister). And then Aurore and I talked and the kids played with playdough and duplos for almost 2 hours. It was with great difficulty that I convinced them to go and eat their cookies and drink their juice. And clearly all of the actual activities that I had planned fell by the wayside. Then, after Safia's mom picked her up, we took the other 3 kids outside to the playground for a little bit before dinner.

Message from camp--July 10

Weather: beautiful

Hello, dear parents.
This morning we walked along the beach to go to market and had the opportunity to buy souvenirs.
Other children will continue the activities: sailing, catamaran, and a picnic.
Yesterday maestro came to visit us to lead the party, we had fun.
We give you big kisses.
Until Monday for more news.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Message from camp--July 9

Weather: beautiful

Dear parents,

Yesterday we did new activities: optimiste (I think this is a kind of small sailboat), pastries, water games. Then we started to prepare a show. Today we are going to the pool and then on the catamaran. This evening we'll have a great fureur (not sure what this is--apparently it's a big and kind of crazy party).

Tomorrow for more news.

Also, we received an actual letter today from Sapphire, who writes that she is doing well, and that she won a game where they had to make the counsellors laugh. She's evidently been collecting shells, and sent one to Cherry and Ezio, but, alas, it got crushed in the mail. She thought that it might, but assured us that the pieces would be pretty, even so.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Message from camp--July 8

Weather: Beautiful

Dear parents.

We're fine, we went on the catamaran. It was great. We had fun. It was sunny but the water was cold. We also played on the beach. The counselors are nice. The center is beautiful and it is right next to the beach. We miss you anyway.
Kisses to all.

In which we go on a pilgrimage


At this point, the posts are all out of order with the time in which we did them. I believe that the relevent date here is the 27th of June, but I wouldn't be willing to swear to it.

Several weeks ago, while wandering around Paris, we visited a church that had once served as the home of St. Vincent de Paul. My encounters with him had largely been through the St Vincent de Paul Society, which runs thrift shops for the Catholic church, though that at least gave me more context than I have for most Catholic saints. Blaise, however, decided to do a little bit of research online, and discovered that there is a fairly substantial "cult" (I hesitate to use that word here, but I don't know a better one) around St Vincent de Paul, and that if we wanted to, we could visit the churches that had his bones and his heart.

Accordingly, once Blaise's schedule had cleared up a little bit, we made our plans and set off, choosing to combine our St Vincent de Paul pilgrimage with one for food. First stop, the St Vincent de Paul chapel. It is much more recent than many of the Paris churches popular with tourists, and is very definitely off the tourist track. They also appear to have worked very hard to obtained the stone for the floors, which squeaked loudly every time I took a step, despite the fact that my shoes were bone dry. So I tried to walk as little as possible while still seeing the chapel.

From there we walked to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, which is very much a pilgrimage site. When we arrived, a very well attended service was in progress, so we listened a little bit from the back and looked at what we could see from there. Blaise and I managed a glimpse of the waxen figure containing the heart of St Vincent, but all of the kids were too short to see over the heads of those in front of us. After a stop at the bathrooms (Free! And clean! And I, fortunately, had Kleenex in my pocket), we headed off to find food. (There was actually another church that was on our list, but when we got there we found that, alas, it was only open during the week.).

Our first food stop was at a little pastry shop, Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki (some of it is actually in Japanese), which has some of the best macarons in Paris. We each picked one: violet for Cherry and me, raspberry pistachio for Blaise and Sapphire, coffee for Ezio. Then we walked with them to the Jardin de Luxembourg where we found a bench in the shade and nibbled away at them until they were all gone. Ezio and Cherry ran races around the benches until Cherry fell and starte crying, and then we headed for the next stop on our pilgrimage.

We stopped at two more very famous pastry shops (Pierre Hermé Paris and Patisserie Gérard Mulot), and went in and gazed rapturously at the exquisite (and very expensive) things in the glass cases. And paged through the very beautiful recipe book they had for sale. And left without spending a cent. That, of course, was because we were saving the rest of our money for a trip to Grom, which is a tually an Italian gelato chain with a shop in Paris. Ironically, we had been there when we visited Turin last summer, where it is considered to be about the best gelato in town. In Paris, it ranks second to Berthillion, where one pays a small fortune for tiny scoops of very good ice cream. Once we had our cones (or cup, in Cherry's case), we settled down to enjoy them at one of the little tables in front of the shop.

A map of our day can be found here.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

In which we go to the dentist

Last May (that is, May 2009) we dutifully went to the dentist before leaving for France. The dentist observed that Sapphire had the beginning of a small cavity in one of her baby molars, but assured me that it would fall out long before it became a problem, and that it really wasn't worth bothering to fill it. So, we didn't, and we just kind of kept an eye on it and hoped that it would get loose and fall out.

Fast forward to this June, when Sapphire announced that her tooth hurt when she chewed, and when observation indicated that the tooth was not even the tiniest bit loose. I looked in the phone book and found a dentist office nearby, called to make an appointment, and scheduled one for the following evening.

The next evening, Tuesday, Sapphire and I headed over to the dentist's office. She took one look at Sapphire's tooth, agreed that something needed to be done, and gave us a prescription for the radiology lab so that we could have x-rays taken of Sapphire's mouth. She needed to decide whether it was better to fill the cavity or just to pull out the tooth.

Wednesday morning, Sapphire and I headed over to the radiology lab, hoping they would be able to take us right away, but prepared to schedule an appointment if necessary. As a fortunate consequence of getting there when it opened, they were able to take her yet that morning, and so after we had sat in the waiting room for a little while, they called Sapphire back and she got to bite on a little white mouthpiece while the x-ray camera moved around her head. (Did I mention that they seem to be big into panoramic x-rays around here?). Then we waited for them to develop the film, and walked out with the x-rays of Sapphire's teeth. (They seem to let everyone be responsible for their own x-rays here. I currently have, in my closet, chest x-rays for both Blaise and I, the results of my abdominal ultrasound, and Sapphire's dental x-rays. And that's from only one year.)

Then, Thursday afternoon, we were playing on the playground by our apartment, and Ezio was (not very wisely) swinging on the gate, which flew open and smacked Cherry in the mouth. Once we had staunched the bleeding, it was clear that none of her teeth had been loosened, but a big piece of her gum had been sliced off. Back to the dentist, this time with Cherry, to be told that the gum was fine (she hadn't sliced off enough of the gum to affect the roots of the teeth), but that she had three small cavities in need of filling.

So the next week we made three trips to the dentist. The first one, on Monday, was for Sapphire. The dentist looked at the x-ray, decided that the tooth wasn't going to come out anytime soon, cleaned it out, put in a temporary filling, and scheduled us to come back on Friday after school. Friday afternoon I went over with Cherry so that she could have her 3 cavities filled, an exercise that took perhaps a half hour and was done completely without drugs of any kind. Cherry didn't even flinch, although she was a bit suspicious of the blue light that the dentist used to set the fillings in her teeth. Then, two hours later, I went back with Sapphire, who also had 3 cavities filled--the big one that had been hurting her, and two smaller ones, all, fortunately, in baby teeth--again without any anesthetic. So now both of my daughters have French dental work, and Ezio is up next. According to the school dentist, he has two teeth in need of filling. Also according to the school dentist, we should be receiving a coupon to pay for his treatment, so I'll wait until it arrives to schedule his appointment. (I would have waited for Sapphire were it not for the fact that she left for camp on Monday.)

Message from camp--July 7

Weather: Beautiful


Hello, dear parents.

Here it is a little chilly, but the sun is out. Yesterday was very good, some of us went on the catamarans, and the others went to the beach. We have swum and played games. On the catamaran, we had to pull a rope to move forward. This morning, we are going to have pastries, wake our muscles, and play games. This afternoon, we will reverse the groups for the catamarans and the beach and this evening we will play games in groups. We hope you are having fun. We are having a lot of fun.


More news tomorrow. Big kisses to all.


Tuesday, July 6, 2010

In which there is an update on Sapphire

We haven't actually heard anything from Sapphire yet, but the camp director is posting brief updates most days. They are, of course, in French, so I'll try to paraphrase in English for those who are interested.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Weather: Beautiful

We have arrived at the centre de vacances in L'Auguillon-sur-Mer. The trip went well, and we have settled into our rooms with our friends and are going to have a snack. Afterwords, we will take a brief tour of the property and visit the area. This evening, after a shower and a good meal, we'll learn a little about each other before we go to bed.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Weather: Beautiful

We are well settled at the camp in l'Aiguillon-sur-Mer. After our first night at the edge of the sea, we woke up to a beautiful blue sky and sunshine. We have already begun our activities for the trip, today we begin the catamaran in small groups. The camp is beautiful, and we are next to the sea.

I promise my mother that we haven't been sitting home while Sapphire has been at camp, but much activity does not leave much time for blogging. (Neither does having kids home from school for the summer.)


Thursday, July 1, 2010

In which Rebekah explains her absence . . .

. . . in order that she might keep the peace with her Mothers and assure them that she has neither fallen from the Eiffel Tower nor drowned in the Seine.

My excuses, in no particular order
1) I've been really, really busy doing things that you don't really want to read about. No, really. I don't think that anyone can make being on hold with the electric company sound interesting. And you don't want to read about unloading the dishwasher or hanging up laundry or that sort of thing either.
2) The kids have been going to bed really late, because it's only really getting dark at 10:20 or so, and so their schedules are all out of whack. Unfortunately, I'm pretty much ready to crash by then too.
3) I have about a million lines of tax forms that I'm supposed to be filling in. I haven't done any of them yet either. (See, I'm an equal opportunity procrastinator!)
4) The World Cup has been on.
5) It is imperative that I read as many George Simenon mysteries as possible before we leave Paris, so that when I walk around I can look at street signs and think, "Oh, they found a body here" or "This is where the victim's girlfriend lived." It's much harder to do that in Manhattan.
6) Blaise's been super busy (although that's getting better) and so we haven't been doing very many of the sorts of things that I find myself getting really excited about writing about.
7) It's hard to start writing again once I've been away from it for several days.

So, really, I don't have any very good excuses, other than procrastination and general busyness. (And may I add that it's currently very, very hot. I'm not sure what that has to do with anything except that I think my brain may be melting.)

In any case, if you would like the short version of what's been going on for the last few weeks it goes something like this:
Deal with bureaucracy--end of school stuff--camp stuff--more bureaucracy--dentist--end of school stuff--dentist--party--dentist--party--camp stuff--doctor--end of school stuff--bureaucracy. . .

I'll try to fill in some more of the details over the next days (just as soon as I finish dealing with the rest of the dentist stuff [Sapphire and Cherry are both getting filling tomorrow, and evidently Ezio needs them as well] and the end of school stuff [last day tomorrow] and the camp stuff [Sapphire leaves Monday morning] . . .).

Thursday, June 10, 2010

In which Cherry likes a roller coaster

Yesterday promised to be a grey, drizzly kind of day, and the kids were antsy, even at 8 in the morning. The playground was out due to the weather, and Wednesday is a busy day at the Cité and it was too late to register for the various activities online. We would have to wait in the ticket lines at the Cité to get it set up. The natural thing to do, of course, was to take the kids to Disney, since I couldn't think of anything else to do. Now, you may be thinking, "Why on earth would you go to Disney on a grey, drizzly kind of day?" The answer, naturally, is that everyone else is thinking what you are thinking, and so lines are shorter and, of course, a little bit of water never hurt anyone (other than the Wicked Witch of the West).

Since it was a spur of the moment kind of decision, I didn't have anything to pack for lunches, and I didn't really want to take the time to go to the grocery store, so we headed off to the park with nothing but our umbrellas and annual passes, leaving Blaise at home to work peacefully (and to go to the store to buy us something to eat for dinner). We rode Buzz Lightyear, and then waited in line for a long time to ride Star Tours, which is normally a FastPass ride, but which is currently undergoing renovations and so the FastPass entrance is currently closed. Cherry is just barely the minimum height for the ride, so it was the first time she's ridden it. She was not a fan. I'm fairly sure that I have bruises on my forearm from her squeezing it so tightly.

Then we rode It's a Small World to settle our (mine and Cherry's) stomachs, and Pirates of the Caribbean en route to the FastPass machines for Big Thunder Mountain Railroad (henceforth known as BTMR). Much to our delight, we only had about 30 minutes to wait before our time slot, so we rode Phantom Manor, and then rode the coaster, with Cherry holding onto my hand for dear life. We wandered through the caves on Adventure Island, and when we came out it was raining in earnest and people were sheltering under whatever overhangs they could find. We, of course, had umbrellas, and so we set off for Discoveryland, hoping that perhaps nobody would want to ride Autotopia (the only ride we have not yet done) in the downpour. As it turned out, they were closing the ride just as we arrived, so we rode the rockets in the downpour and ended up absolutely soaked. (I also discovered that, much as I don't like Dumbo, I like the rockets even less.) We headed into Videopolis to dry off a bit, and then decided to see what the line looked like for BTMR. Perhaps nobody would want to ride that in the rain either? We bribed Cherry to come by offering her the chance to pick the next two rides afterwards.

After we rode the coaster, I picked up FastPasses again, thinking that just maybe we'd end up using them, and that there was no harm done if we didn't. Then we headed back to Pirates, which was Cherry's choice. By the time we had ridden it, our time slot had arrived, and so she agreed that we could go ride BTMR before we came back and rode Pirates (yet again). And then, at the end of her 3rd trip on BTMR she decided that what she really wanted to do was ride it again. And then even a 5th time. And then she wanted to ride it again, but it was time to go home, and so we did.

Monday, June 7, 2010

In which we go to the Pompidou Centre

Note: There are some missing posts here, which I hope to fill in over the next several days. In the meantime, I'm going to work on posting more recent stuff, since I'm finding writing about the older stuff a bit overwhelming at this point.

Yesterday, as you all know, was the first Sunday in June, which, of course, means that it was free museum day. The most significant omission in our free museum trips thus far was the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris's modern art museum. So we headed down yesterday morning, hoping that if we got there before it opened we wouldn't be held up by too much of a line. (Unlike the Louvre and the Orsay, which seem to allow as many people into the museum as are willing to cram themselves in, the Pompidou Centre seems to have fairly strict capacity limits, perhaps because the museum itself is located on the 4th to 6th floors of the building, and it would be more difficult to evacuate in case of necessity. That means that once the museum is full, you have to wait for somebody to leave in order for the next person to go in.)

Once we were through security and Blaise had checked his umbrella, we headed up the very cool outside escalators (they're inside glass tubes, so you couldn't fall off) to the very top of the museum, where we took advantage of our height to enjoy a panoramic view of Paris. Since the only other things on that floor were a restaurant and special exhibits (which were not free) we headed back down the escalator (despite the signs warning that we were not to take children under 13 down it) to the 4th floor where the entrance to the main part of the museum was located. Then, we had to go up the steps because the main part of the main part of the museum is on the 5th floor. Confused yet?

The museum is small compared to the Louvre, or even really to the Orsay, but still big enough so that I'll spare you all the details. Cherry fell in love with a video of a woman dancing in a dress with a huge skirt, and as she danced the dress changed colors. Sapphire and Ezio and Blaise decided that a movie called Resurrection was very cool. If you really want details, I can supply them. Otherwise, I'll just remark that we really liked it in middle school when Doc Fryling would show the movies backwards and we could watch the food coming out of people's mouths and going back onto the plate.

After we had explored the 5th floor thoroughly, we headed back down to the 4th floor, which had an exhibit of the work of modern female artists. (I could probably say more here, but I'm not much good at writing about art. Suffice it to say that there was a great deal of raw anger in the art on display.)

Then, Blaise picked up his umbrella and we headed off to look for some lunch. After lunch, we decided to clear security back into the museum (not much of a line) so that we could use the bathrooms, and then to head over to Saint Eustache (Google translated French Wikipedia page) for a look around. Enroute, we passed a man making enormous bubbles with string and bubble solution, surrounded by a crowd of children he was encouraging to chase after and pop the bubble. The kids decided to join in the fun and so for 10 minutes or so we watched them give chase to the bubbles.

Next, Saint Eustache, which is quite large and quite old. Although it isn't as nearly as old as Notre Dame, it is also not nearly as well maintained, and so it looks quite a lot more run down. It has an interesting history however--it was here that Louis XIV made his first communion, and the home of Saint Vincent de Paul for nearly 10 years. Once Cherry and I had made the tour of the side chapels (which I like though nobody else in my family seems to) we headed outside and over to the playground in the Jardin du Forum des Halles, where the kids played for a while until it started to look like it was going to rain. After a very crowded train ride home (technical problems with the train line), we relaxed and watched the last 2 points of the French Open.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

In which we deal with taxes

You are probably reading this and wondering how we managed to wait until late May/early June to deal with taxes, or, alternately perhaps, you're wondering whether we've been audited. In fact, I have not yet dealt with our American taxes for 2009, other than to file a request for an extension to file on the grounds that we will, once we have been out of the United States for 365 days, qualify as non-residents for tax purposes, all of which will make our lives much easier. No, the taxes of which I speak are the French ones.

A bit of background: Blaise is being paid by the French government through one of the universities. Every month, money is deposited into our bank account, and we receive in the mail a piece of pink paper with a looong list of all of the various deductions from his paycheck and the contributions made by his employer. Some of them are quite small (less than a euro) and some are considerably larger, but most are in the 10 to 40 euro range, and the percentage that is picked up by the employer is generally significant. So even though I didn't know what half of the stuff stood for, I figure that the tax thing was being taken care of, as it is in the US, except, hopefully, better, since maybe they would manage to take the right amount out. . .. Then, around mid May, Blaise received an email telling him that he needed to file his French income tax return on or before the 31st of May, or the government would file it for him and that we definitely didn't want that to happen. Also, we were told, there were any number of tax agreements between France and the US, which might or might not apply to us, some of which can be invoked only once by any one individual.

So I searched around and downloaded the form that I needed to fill out, and then hunted on the IRS website for copies and explanations of the various tax treaties in English and on the French tax website for copies and explanations of the various tax treaties in French. And then I read them all and decided that I am extremely glad that I am not a specialist in international tax law (although if I were, our filing would have been much easier). In any case, it appeared that our rental income could be exempted from the French income tax, so long as we paid taxes on it in the United States, and that we could choose to exempt Blaise's income as a researcher as well (and exempt it from US taxes since we were resident in France when it was earned), though the part of the treaty applicable to his income could only be invoked once, and so if we were ever to return for longer than a year, we wouldn't be able to use it again. So, basically it's a bet--does one take the sure tax savings now, or wait and hope to come back when one could use it for more income?

We decided to take the bet, and hope to come back. Next, the tax form. The beginning was relatively straightforward, I thought, names, birth names, birth dates, etc for the adults, and birth years (and that was it!) for the dependents. And then information about our housing situation: address--easy, dates of moves--easy, number of pièces (rooms)--not so easy. Yes, I know, that seems like a really easy question; after all, I do live in the place after all! But the rules for counting rooms in France seem to be different than those in the US. For example, bedrooms and living/dining rooms count, naturally, but kitchens do not. (Neither do bathrooms and toilets, but that's hardly surprising.) A question about whether or not we have a television (because there's a tax if you do--and we watch a lot fewer commercials here because it pays for a lot of the programming costs). And finally, the pages about income, at which point I threw up my hands and emailed the people who had emailed Blaise about filling in the forms in the first place (and had offered to help us).

Two days later, I got an email back from them, explaining that our tax situation was extremely complicated and they didn't know anything about rental income or tax treaties and that I should contact our tax center in Vincennes. So, I translated my email into French, and sent it off. And received an email back saying that our tax situation was extremely complicated and that I should really come in and meet with one of their tax experts for help in filling out the form. (Free of charge, I might add.)

So the next morning (by this point it was the 28th of May), Blaise took the kids to school and I boarded a bus to Vincennes, hoping that I wouldn't have too terribly long a wait for help. When I got there, the office had just opened, and the line of people snaked out the door and down the block, and I prepared for a long, long wait. But as the line began to move forward, I noticed that many people seemed to be there only to pick up a form or perhaps to drop off their completed tax forms, and that the percentage of people who were actually there for help was relatively small. Once I reached the front and picked up my number, there were 26 people in front of me in line, much of the waiting room was filled, and the line was still, at any rate, out the door, though I could no longer see past that point. (For reference, the tax center opened at 8:30, and I was seated and waiting my turn shortly after 8:45.) I pulled out my ipod and prepared to wait (and play Civilization).

Each time they were ready for someone else, the sign above the door would beep, and the next number would flash, along with the letter of the office (A to H) they were to go to. When I sat down, they were on 9, but the numbers kept chugging along, 10, 11, 12, . . .. About 45 minutes after I sat down, my number flashed, and I headed for the indicated office, paperwork in hand. After apologizing for my French, and my inability to figure out how to fill out the form, I sat down and we began the process of filling in the forms. Five minutes later the personal information was filled out, along with our housing information, television information, and number of dependents. I put our wages into the proper slot on the 3rd page, and explained that we had rental income, but that since our house was in the US I believed that we could pay the taxes on it to the US rather than the French. She wasn't sure whether or not that was true, so she called in the head of the office, who spent perhaps 30 seconds looking it up, confirmed that it was true, and had me fill in my name and the address of our house in the US, along with the amount of our rental income on another form. He then apologized profusely for the complexity of our tax return, which had taken, even including the 5 minutes it took to find the head of the department, a grand total of 16 minutes to fill in. I decided not to point out that it had taken me more than twice as long just to fill out the request for an extension to file our US tax return.

Once I got home, I decided to find out whether or not we had actually been granted the extension that I had requested, so I called the IRS to ask. The woman I talked to looked it up and assured me that the request had been granted, and said she wasn't sure why I had not yet received the form telling me so. I found that out the next day when the form finally came, and I discovered that it had been sent to New Zealand, and then mailed to France from there!

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

In which we walk

Another out of order post---I'm slowly getting caught up with the things that I've missed posting about while Mom was here.

When my mom visited us last fall, we spent one of the mornings that the kids were at school walking to the market at Nogent sur Marne, which is the next suburb over. (It is also the suburb that we've had to go to to deal with most of our titre de séjour paperwork, since that is where the nearest sous-prefecture is located.) She wanted very much to go back over there some morning this spring, and so a couple of days before she was scheduled to leave, we headed for the market after taking Cherry to school, and spent an hour wandering through the stands of clothing and food and sundry household articles. I found paupiettes de veau, which I'd been searching for unsuccessfully at the Auchan, and bought enough for dinner. (Ambitious people and those who live outside of France make their own, but I'm perfectly happy to pick up the pre-stuffed variety.)

We headed home afterwards and picked up Cherry from school, then went straight into Paris, because I wanted to show Mom where we had lived 3 years ago, and also because there was a church, l'Église Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, that we had seen with Blaise's parents, and which had unusual stained glass which I thought she would appreciate. So we rode the train to Place de Clichy and walked the block or so to our old apartment, which, naturally, Cherry observed that she didn't remember, so I told her about how she used to push all of our stuff under the grill in front of the window and I would have to race down the stairs to save it from the street sweeeper.

Then we headed across the bridge spanning the Cimetière de Montmartre and up toward Place de Abbesses, where we stopped at our second favorite bakery from our last stay in Paris (our favorite is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday) to pick up some lunch: pizza for Cherry and quiche for Mom and me. After we had eaten in a small park, we headed up to the top of Montmartre, where we watched the "cool guy with a soccer ball," who, unfortunately, did not find it necessary to hang from the light posts this time. Next, we walked around to the entrance to St. Pierre. (We skipped Sacre Coeur because we were running short on time--Blaise had a meeting in Paris and so we needed to be home in time to pick Sapphire and Ezio up from school.) Once we had properly admired the windows--lots of black, which is somewhat unusual for stained glass--we headed down the hill and looked for a metro stop, then headed for home.

Monday, May 31, 2010

In which we take a boat trip

"In the faint, gray light of early dawn, the barge lay like a shadow on the water." So begins Maigret and the Headless Corpse, set on the Canal St. Martin (if you read French, the French version is more thorough, but is, of course, in French), which at the time of the book was still used as a shipping route, bringing good into and through Paris and out to the Seine. Now the canal is used primarily for tourists who wish to take a boat ride through the canals of Paris. (One can also take a boat on the Seine, and in fact that is much easier to do.)

There are only a few boat companies that take boats through the Canal St. Martin, partially, I expect, because there don't seem to be all that many places where two boats of any size would be able to pass each other. One of the ones that does is Canauxrama, which takes one boat from Bastille to Parc de la Villette and a second boat back every morning and afternoon.

The second Sunday of Mom's visit was beautiful, sunny and pleasantly warm, and we decided that it would be a wonderful day to go on a cruise down the Canal St. Martin, so we headed off to Bastille, and bought our tickets at the little kiosk along the quai. The ticket seller told us that they would begin boarding the boat in about 20 minutes (45 minutes before the scheduled departure, but we wanted seats on the top of the boat, not in the cabin underneath), and so Blaise and I rushed off to the Bastille street market, leaving the kids and Mom to admire the boats bobbing about the water. A rush through the market netted us bread and olives to go with the oranges that we'd brought from home, and by the time we returned to the dock, they were beginning the boarding process. Fortunately, they hadn't gotten very far, and so we had no trouble finding seats in the front of the top of the boat.

We settled in to eat our lunch and to watch the rest of the boat slowly up. The captain came on board and left again, but eventually we cast off and made our way to the start of the canal, passing under the Bastille metro station and into the vault that formed the first third of our voyage. At one point, the entire canal was open to the sky, but the first kilometers of it were covered in three successive sections between the 1860's and the 1900's. As we rode through the covered section, the guide explained in French, and again in English, what we were passing through, and at the same time the projector on the front of the boat projected images on the walls and ceiling of the vault. From time to time, sunlight and fresh air and occasionally a trailing vine came in through circular openings in the ceiling of the vault, and everyone jumped up to take pictures.

Once we had left the vaulted part of the canal, we had approximately 4 more kilometers of sailing to go before we reached the Bassin de la Villette, and we needed to go up about 25 meters to get there. Going up on water means only one thing: locks, and the Canal St. Martin has 4 sets of double locks, each set going up about 20 feet. Now, Mom likes locks a lot, so much so in fact that when we once spent a summer living in Seattle when I was a child, she dragged us to the Ballard Locks every day that it wasn't raining, and (since this was Seattle) many days when it was raining too. We hadn't told her that there would be locks on the Canal, and she was thrilled to realize that she would actually be going through locks, not just watching other people going through them. (Blaise revealed at this point that he'd never actually seen locks before.) On we sailed through the four sets of locks, with people stopping on the bridges overhead to watch the water rushing into the locks so that we could move on to the next part of the canal.

After about 2 hours, we arrived at the Bassin de la Villette, which evidently provides most of the non potable water used by the city of Paris (for such things as decorative fountains and street cleaning). Through the Bassin we went, and out to the mouth of the Canal de l'Ourcq, at which point the boat turned around and headed back to the beginning of the Bassin. Those of us who wished to be dropped off at the Parc de la Villette were, and I assume that the trip back went smoothly for those still on the boat. We stopped briefly at the Jardin des Vents et des Dunes for the kids to play, and then headed home for dinner and bedtime.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

In which we go to Night at the Museum

Every spring, Europe celebrates the annual Night at the Museum. In Paris, this means that the national museums, and many of the private musuems, are open from 7 p.m. until 1 a.m, and they are, generally speaking, free. In addition, there are events scheduled at many of the larger parks and cultural centers. (When I say that they are mostly free, I mean that the Dutch cultural center charges admission to their event. Draw what conclusions you will.)

This spring, the Nuit des Musées was May 15th, and, of course, we went, along with Mom who was still visiting with us. (And yes, if you're thinking that I'm rather behind here, you're right.) After a careful consultation with the schedule for the evening, we decided that we'd like to go to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which we visited when we were here in 2007 but hadn't yet on this trip. The museum, along with several others, is located in the Jardin des Plantes, and we were looking forward to walking through the park enroute to the museum. Unfortunately, the security detail at the park directed us out through the gates and along the street to the museum entrance, where we proceeded to stand in line for 45 minutes.

Once inside the museum, we headed downstairs to the dinosaur exhibit, which had both dinosaur fossils, and fossil remains of early fish, mammals, and birds, along with text explaining how various developments had been to their advantage. Then back upstairs to the ocean exhibits, where Cherry and I walked through an enormous model of beach sand and looked at the critters that lived there. (The grains of sand were nearly as tall as Cherry, and the scale-size life was still fairly small.) Blaise showed Sapphire and Ezio the seiche (cuttlefish) that he had tried at dinner the night before.

On the first floor we walked past the enormous path of animals from all over the world, and of all sizes. (Why do people think it's OK to let their kids touch museum specimens? Or even, in one case, lick them? And on a related note, what kind of kid wants to lick a stuffed lion?) Sapphire went over to one of the demonstrators and asked questions about the animals, and Cherry and I went in search of (what else?) a bathroom. Once we had everyone together again, we went up to the second level. By this point Cherry was getting tired and cranky and it wasn't much longer before she fell asleep on my shoulder, and I got to carry her through the rest of the museum. (And for just the second time in Paris, I found myself wishing that we'd brought a stroller with us. Not too bad for 10.5 months.)

My favorite part of the museum is the hall of extinct and endangered species. Have you ever wondered what a dodo looked like? They have a stuffed specimen in the museum. Would you like to see a Barbary lion? They have a pair of them, given as a gift (while still alive, of course) to the king of France for his menagerie. Once we had finished walking through there, we decided to skip the third floor and head for home.

Monday, May 24, 2010

In which we go to the Orsay

Blaise and the kids and I went to the Musée d'Orsay on Easter Sunday, since that was a free museum day. Of course, going with the kids, and in particular Cherry, meant that I got to spend a lot of time trying to keep them relatively happy and interested in what was going on. (To be completely fair, Blaise did virtually all the work required to keep Sapphire interested, and tried very hard to keep Ezio engaged with the art. It was really just Cherry who forced me to use a fake excited voice the entire time.) In any case, I wanted to go back, without kids, before we left France. Since Mom had never been to the Orsay (it's a relatively new museum), it seemed like a good idea to go with her on a morning when Blaise would be available to pick Cherry up from school.

Friday morning we took Cherry to school and then set off for the RER and the Orsay. We arrived and headed up the stairs to wait in line for security. (I'm not sure for how long they have been running security checkpoints at Parisian museums. I don't remember them when we were here before Sapphire was born, (except at Sainte Chapelle, which shares an entry with a major French court).) In any case, the line was far shorter than it had been on Easter, and so it took us only about 20 minutes to work our way through security and into the museum. Next stop, the ticket counter, and on into the museum.

We saw most of the museums' displayed collection over the course of the next couple of hours, even the Monet pieces, which I must confess I find more palatable in small doses. And yes, I know that one is required to like Monet, but I don't particularly. I'm not anti-impressionist (which is good, since the Orsay is pretty much all impressionism), I just don't particularly like Monet.

Then we worked our way home, where Cherry was very happy to see us.

That evening, Mom took all three kids to McDonalds (so they can now say that they've been to McDonalds in France, which was, for some reason, extremely important to my mom). Then, she brought them home and put them to bed, which Blaise and I met some friends of his for a very nice dinner in Paris. Apparently, the restaurant is owned by a retired bank clerk whose wife had always dreamed of running/cooking in a small restaurant. We had excellent food and conversation. On the way home, we watched a group of men playing petanque with lighters in the metro station.


Sunday, May 23, 2010

In which we go to Versailles

Not a new post, but it was out of order, so I moved it.

I wanted to take my Mom to Versailles while she was here. Despite having been to Paris on more than one occasion, she had never been out to the palace, which seemed a bit odd, given that it seems to be, judging by the crowds at least, at the top of everyone's list of things to do while in Paris. We thought about going on a weekend, when, at least in theory, the fountains in the gardens would be running, until we discovered that not only would the adults cost an extra 7€, we would also have to pay for the kids to get into the gardens (under 18s are typically free for national museum sites in France). Blaise and I both thought that (based on our experience) the fountains weren't worth the extra cost, and so we decided to go on a weekday. That meant either a Wednesday, when the kids are out of school, or the 13th, which was Ascension Day and therefore a day off from school.

The weather forecast for Wednesday, May 12, promised to be drizzly in the morning, with clearing skies and sun for the afternoon. Since we would start inside the palace and then work our way out to the grounds and the "outbuildings," that sounded workable. After a trip to the grocery store for lunch food, we headed to the RER station. Ninety minutes,2 transfers, and a brisk 15 minute walk later, we were ready to buy our tickets to the chateau. Then a quick trip through security, and we, along with approximately 2.47 million other people, were inside the chateau. (We have friends who went to Versailles the following Sunday, and who, evidently, spent a hour in line to buy tickets and then had to wait in a huge line at security.)

First stop, the main palace, which, as I said earlier, was very crowded, perhaps due to the 40+ tour buses lined up outside. Our tickets included a free audioguide, but by the time I realized where we went to pick them up, the tide of people had carried us past them, as well as the maps to the chateau. Fortunately, it's difficult to get too much off track at Versailles--you just have to let the crowds carry you along and you're sure to find your way out eventually. We looked into the ground floor of the palace chapel, which was blocked off (you could see in, but not go in). My kids were quite disappointed to discover that there was a school group inside the chapel, where they weren't allowed to go, and I got to hear about how they never got to go on interesting field trips and it wasn't fair. Then we headed off through the various rooms of the palace. I won't bore you with the details as I'm sure that there's a virtual tour of Versailles somewhere on the internet. (Try here, for example.)

Next, a bathroom stop followed by a trip out into the gardens for lunch. Did I say that it was supposed to be clearing and sunny by afternoon? Well, perhaps it was sunny somewhere, but it was still heavily overcast where we were, though at least it had stopped drizzling. We found an out of the way bench, and proceeded to eat our lunch. Then we headed through the gardens in the general direction of the grand canal. En route, we spotted several dirt paths snaking away into the trees, and the kids begged to be allowed to explore them. Eventually I acquiesced, and so they bolted off down the trail, with Mom and I following at a more leisurely pace. (Blaise decided that he had too much to do to be able to afford to take an entire Wednesday off, particularly as he'd not been able to work very much at all on Tuesday afternoon because of our visit to the Gobelins, so he decided not to come with us.) After a brief game of hide and seek in the bushes and fallen tree trunks, we lured them out and finished our walk to the grand canal.

From there, we headed down the walk to the Grand Trianon, where the king could go if the pressures of palace life got to be too much for him. Cherry had picked up a small stick on the way through the gardens, and woman working security was kind enough to ask her to put it into my coat pocket while we were inside, rather than ordering her to throw it away outside. Cherry, however, was quite embarrassed by the whole affair, and insisted that she needed to be carried through the rest of the Trianon.

Next, we went to Marie Antoinette's estate. By this point all three kids were beginning to get a bit cranky, and so we only saw the Petit Trianon. There are also various gardens and other buildings associated with her estate, not to mention a working farm (which we saw some of on our way back to the exit to the gardens). The kitchen was by far the best part, and we talked about what was missing--obviously the refrigerator, since there was no electricity back then, but there also didn't seem to be any places for food storage, or facilities for washing hands, dishes, or food. Perhaps the food was brought in just before preparation, and washing was done outside.

We had promised the kids that they could play around outside if they cooperated inside, so we let them play for a little while, though not as long as they would have liked. Then we headed back past Marie Antoinette's farm (sheep and horses) to the main palace and then out and back to the train station.

Friday, May 21, 2010

In which we go visit the Gobelins

Ah, the Gobelins. Not to be confused with the goblins. The latter are little monsters. The former, a tapestry "factory."

Perhaps you are aware that my mother is a fiber arts nut, and that, now that she has retired and gotten all of the kids out of the house, she has even more time to indulge. She knits, spins, weaves, dyes, etc. One of the things that she does not do is tapestry, but she wants to (she's taking a course this summer), and so when she discovered last fall that one can visit the Gobelins, and even tour their manufacturing plant, it became the most important thing she could possibly do while in Paris. Of course, once something becomes very very important, something will happen to prevent it from happening, and so we never did make it to the Gobelins last fall.

When Mom decided that she was coming back to Paris this spring, she told me that she simply must go to the Gobelins. The first step was to get tickets. Now, you can visit the galleries at the Gobelins all day long, six days a week. You just need to buy an admission ticket from the front desk. Touring the factory is somewhat more difficult. They run 3 tours a weeks: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 1:00 to 2:30, and space is limited to 25 people. Wednesday is a no school day, so that was out, and the only Thursday that Mom was really going to be here (she flew in and out on Thursdays) was Ascension Day, and so there was no school then either. Then, of course, there was Blaise's schedule to contend with. I was pretty sure that Cherry would not enjoy the tour (and that nobody would particularly enjoy having her on the tour either), and so it would have to be a day when he would be able to spend the afternoon with her. That left May 11 as our only possibility.

After attempting to buy tickets online (I needed either a French credit card (not debit card) or to have the tickets sent to our address in Kansas using our American card), I decided that I was probably stuck going to the store to get the tickets. Fortunately (sort of) advanced ticket sales were done through FNAC (which probably stands for something, though I don't know what), and there was one at the next mall over. So one afternoon, Cherry and I headed over and bought our tickets.

Several weeks later, the date of our tour finally arrived. I reminded Cherry when we dropped her off at preschool that it would be Papa who picked her up, and we set off for Paris after an early lunch. We had been instructed to arrive 15 minutes prior to the tour's starting time, and were then able to spend some time wandering through the current exhibit at the gallery, which consisted primarily of Dutch and Flemish tapestries on loan from the King of Spain's collection. Shortly before our tour we headed out to the entryway, and the tour began.

I can tell you about what I observed on our tour. I cannot, unfortunately, tell you much about what the tour guide said because, naturally, the tour was in French, and my knowledge of crafting terminology in French is somewhat lacking. We started our tour in the weavers chapel, then headed over to the workshops. At one time, most of the weavers (and probably the dyers and spinners as well) who worked at the Gobelins lived on site, in a giant close. We walked past the "apartment" buildings that provided housing, and then up to our first workshop.

Here, the artists were working on tapis, which is translated into English as carpet. That doesn't describe what they were making very well though. These tapis were intended to be used as wall hangings, in the same way as tapestries, and some of them had very intricate designs indeed. They differed from tapestries in that where a tapestry is woven, and therefore largely flat, these had the tufted ends of the yarn providing the surface of the work. We spent some time watching the weavers at work. Tapis making is a painstakingly slow business: examine pattern, select piece of wool, double check pattern, put in a few stitches, check pattern again, repeat. Although the weavers fingers flew while they were putting in the stitches, they spent only about 15% of the time putting in the stitches and the remaining 85% making sure that they were going to be putting in the right stitches. Interestingly, we learned that the weavers are the ones who make the determinations about which colors to using in a piece, and that while the weaving is done primarily in natural light (though not when we visited because it was rainy), the color selection is done in artificial light, to reflect the lighting where the piece will be hung.

Next, we headed back across the close to the tapestry studio, where our guide talked about the work that they do in repairing old or damaged tapestries, and the work they do in duplicating old tapestries. Then, into the workshop we went. We were able to watch several weavers at work, on several different tapestries. They are woven sideways instead of from bottom to top, so that the strongest threads run across the work when it is hung. (Also, so that it is much easier to make vertical lines in the tapestry.) They were working on several more modern pieces, on duplicating an old tapestry from, perhaps, Versailles (she said, but I don't remember), and on a large tapestry to be hung to celebrate the anniversary of the bank of France, whose mate was being woven at Beauvais, another French tapestry workshop.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

In which we take grandma to Disney

My parents never took us to Disney. Not Disneyland. Not Disneyworld. In fact, come to think of it, I don't think they ever took us to anything that could possibly be considered to be an amusement park of any kind. That doesn't mean that they didn't take us places. They did-- to national parks, state parks, big cities, remote Michigan towns, historical battlefields, farms--just not to Disney. And for years I was quite sure that we were the only children on the planet (or at least in the US) who had never been to there. (Blaise grew up on Florida, and trips to Disney were definitely part of his childhood.) Naturally, since my parents had never taken us to Disney, Mom had never been to Disney either.

When she came last fall, we had plans to go to Parc Disneyland, but ran into some problems. First, Cherry and Blaise were sick. Then, we ran into blackout dates for our park passes. Then it was cold and rainy. And then the kids had to go back to school. All of which meant that, of course, we didn't end up going to Disney at all, and so when she returned to visit us this spring, that it became one of the kids' top priorities to make sure Grandma went to Disney with them.

The weather on Saturday promised to be gorgeous, our passes were valid, and so we decided to go. One more question: what time? We could try to be there when the park opened at 10 and head home for dinner, or we could go in the early afternoon and stay until the park closed that evening. (Yes, I know we could go for the whole day, but that's too long for Cherry to handle.) Since the park (and Fantasyland in particular) is very pretty when it starts to get dark and the lights go on, we decided to go after lunch.

First stop inside the park, the FastPass line at Big Thunder Mountain Railroad, then off to the Phantom Manor, where Cherry whined and complained so much in the line that Blaise offered to take her home and spend the afternoon working while she whined there. She settled down a bit after that, and we were able to spend the rest of the day without incident.

Later on, we went over to get in the FastPass line at Big Thunder Mountain, equipped with our six passes, and decided which one of us would sit out with Cherry should that be necessary. The minimum height to ride is 102 cm, and when I had last measured Cherry, she was 101.5 cm, sock foot. Since she would be measured with shoes on, she probably had those extra 5 mm, but we couldn't know for certain until they decided. We reached the front of the queue and the "cast member" measured Cherry. Twice. Then she called her coworker who also measured her twice. Then the first cast member measured her again. Then she took out a little slip of paper and wrote down that Cherry had passed her measurement, and we went into the waiting line. Down on the ride platform they measured her again, though fortunately only once, and we climbed on. Her verdict? It was fun except at the end where they "turned all the lights out and I couldn't see anything."

After dinner we headed over to Buzz Lightyear, thrilled to see that the line was only 30 minutes, since it typically has quite a long line and the kids really like it. Thirty minutes later, we hadn't moved, but they had made several announcements about "technical difficulties" and how they would "get the ride fixed as soon as possible" and Sapphire and Blaise's FastPasses for Space Mountain were coming up, so we ducked under some railings and headed out the emergency exit.

On the way out we rode the carrousel, the tea cups, and Dumbo under the lights, and then headed out to the RER station.

Monday, May 17, 2010

In which we visit the Passages de Paris

On the walls of our apartment are many black and white prints of photos taken by Robert Doisneau, a French photographer. One that has always intrigued me shows a waiter hurrying down the Passage des Princes with a tray full of food. (And yes, given what we know about the photographer, I realize that it is highly likely that the photo was posed.) Behind him one sees what looks like an indoor street, with shops along the sides and a giant clock mounted high on the wall above him. What was this Passage des Princes? Did it still exist? Are there others like it in Paris?

Friday morning I decided to keep Cherry home from school again, seeing as how she was still feverish on Thursday evening. Blaise needed to work, however, so he wanted us out of the apartment--with Cherry. It seemed the perfect opportunity to see if we could find some of these passages and explore them.

First, a few notes on the history of the passages. They were built primarily during the 19th century, and provided a place for shopping and congregating away from the horses and clamor of the streets. As sidewalks became more prevalent and horses were replaced by other modes of transportation, these passageways began to fall out of favor. More recently, however, several have been restored, and new shops and restaurants have opened alongside the older ones.

Now, we needed to select our passages. Ideally, we would be able to find two (or even more) that we could move between on foot, without having to bother with busses or trains. Along boulevard Montmartre, I discovered that there were two passages, not just on the same road but virtually opposite one another along that road.

The first passage that we visited was Passage Jouffroy, the first of the Parisian passages to be heated. (If the heat is still working, they definitely did not have it turned on. It was C-O-L-D in there.) We walked past many stores carrying home decor, much of it antique (or at least fake antique--since I was just looking in the windows I wasn't really in a position to judge (not that I would be anyway)). Past a bookstore with very old books on shelves touching the ceiling. We stopped in a little shop with miniatures on the ground floor because Cherry wanted to look at the dollhouses, and discovered that upstairs was filled with classic wooden toys and puzzles for children (much too upscale to be for kids) as well as kits for making felted dolls, knits, and any number of other fiber objects. Of course my mother was thrilled, since her true love is fiber arts, and she ended up buying roving in a rainbow of colors so that she and the kids could make felt butterflies and teddy bears.

At the end of the passage, we noticed that it seemed to continue on the other side of the street, and so we crossed into a somewhat more dilapidated section which was full of more antique book and furniture sellers. (After we got home I discovered that this was not, in fact, an extension of Passage Jouffroy but rather Passage Verdeau, an entirely different passage.)

Next, we headed back toward the entrance to the passage, stopping at a candy shop for some nougat and olives au chocolat and across the street to the Passage des Panoramas, the earliest of the Parisian passages. We passed stamp dealers and coin dealers and more stamp dealers. In case you were wondering, buying a complete set of French stamps from 1917 is very expensive. From 1997, not so much. Where the Passage Jouffroy had tea shops and candy shops, the Passage des Panoramas had proper restaurants, and lots of them. By this point we had been walking for a couple of hours, it was almost noon, and we were all getting hungry. So we found a restaurant with a reasonable formule and stopped for lunch.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

In which Mom arrives

Thursday morning, my mom (who shall for the near future be referred to simply as "Mom," mostly because I'm lazy and it saves me a few keystrokes) arrived in Paris, and of course, I needed to go to the airport to collect her. This should be a relatively simple task. She arrives and waits by the customs exit, I come by train to get her, we leave. Very simple. Of course, things were a bit more complicated because her flight was scheduled to arrive at 7:45 and what with needing to clear immigration and get her luggage and get back to our apartment, I couldn't both take Cherry to school and get there right away, so we agreed that she would just sit tight until 10:30 or so, and then we'd mosey on home together.

In the middle of the night Wednesday, Cherry woke up and informed me that she needed to "hoe up," which she then proceeded to do, fortunately not in the bed. And then she went back to sleep, only to wake up 3 hours later and inform me that she was hot and her head hurt. So I gave her Motrin and held her until her head stopped hurting and she could go back to sleep (on the couch). Naturally that meant that she wasn't going to be going to school on Thursday, which eliminated one of the issues with going to get Mom. Of course it introduced another one, namely, "what to do about Cherry." Option 1--take her with me--seemed out because not only would it expose everyone on the train to whatever she had, it would expose her to what everyone on the train had when her immune system was clearly already dealing with something. Option 2--make Blaise get Mom--didn't appeal to Blaise, who observed that he would definitely lose an entire morning's work. Option 3--leave Cherry with Blaise--didn't appeal to Blaise either (see the problem at option 2). Eventually option 3 won out on the grounds that he might possibly be able to get some email or something sent while caring for Cherry.

Then I had a brilliant idea. Blaise had to eat breakfast and take the kids to school anyway, so he wouldn't be able to start working before 9:15 or so no matter what. Since Mom's plane had landed by 8:00 (I checked the website), I could go to the airport then, and meet her early, and he would get more work done and she wouldn't have to spend as long sitting at the airport. It would all work out perfectly.

So I headed for the airport, arriving around 9:20, and headed for our agreed upon meeting spot--outside the customs area of Terminal 2A, which was exactly where we had met in October. Mom had said that she would find someplace to sit and knit in that area, and so I started looking for her as I approached. I didn't spot her on my first pass through the area, but that didn't particularly concern me. Perhaps the line at immigration had been long, or maybe she'd needed to find a bathroom when she got off the plane. Furthermore, there weren't all that many seats, so she might have needed to walk a ways to find one. Probably she just figured that she would walk back to the customs area around 10:15. I would just go further up and down the terminal and perhaps I'd even peek into the restaurants and cafés to see if I could spot her there. So I walked all the way from one end of terminal 2A to the opposite end of terminal 2C and back, peeking into all the seating areas and restaurants along the way. No luck.

By this time it was close to 10 and I was beginning to get a bit concerned. Well, perhaps her flight had come in at some other part of terminal 2. After all, things might still be messed up from the volcano, and they might have had to shuffle some planes around. No big deal, she was probably just waiting for me at terminal 2E or something like that. I would go to the information desk and confirm that the flight had landed where it was supposed to. So I waited my turn at the information desk, and asked them to confirm that her flight had indeed come in at terminal 2A, and was informed that it had in fact come in to terminal 1, which is a completely different building on the opposite end of the airport complex. (Even the RER has two stops.) The best way to get there? Take the airport shuttle train over.

Through terminals 2A and 2C. Through the train station. Out the doors and down the stairs to the shuttle. Board and wait while the train passes through a parking lot, Terminal 3, another parking lot, and at last, Terminal 1. By now I've learned my lesson. There are multiple halls to terminal 1 and I straight to the nearest information desk to figure out which one I need. The nearest elevator will take me to where I need to be, so I go up and look around. The area is small, and it fairly quickly becomes clear that Mom. is. not. there. Nor is she in the bathroom, or the one coffee shop. Perhaps she's still inside the baggage claim (2.5 hours after she landed? Not likely.). Back over to information where I confirm once more that this is where her flight landed, and tell the woman working at the desk that I can't find my Mom, who was supposed to wait right there until I came to get her. Evidently they don't page people, but they make an exception. I wait, anxiously for several minutes. Nothing.

What to do? Perhaps she's contacted Blaise? In any case, he's probably wondering what on earth has happened to me. I phone, tell him that I'm still at the airport and that Mom is missing and that they switched terminals and that. . .. He says he'll confirm the terminal for me, and has me talk to Cherry. My time runs out, and I'm out of change. I rush to the newsstand and buy the cheapest thing they have in order to get more. I call back. Her flight did in fact land at terminal 1, baggage claim 4, which I can see quite nicely through the window. Perhaps she's downstairs by the check in desks? I go back down the elevator and look around. No.

And then I hear, very faintly, an announcement, with my name, telling me to do something, though I can't figure out what it could be. Back up the elevator to the helpful information desk people. I tell them that I've heard my name, but couldn't understand where I was to go. My mother is waiting for me at terminal 2D they say, and offer to call back over there to tell her that I've been located.

Back down the elevator, the escalator, onto the shuttle, through the parking lot, terminal 3, the other parking lot, up an escalator and along the other side of terminal 2 to terminal 2D. And there she is, waiting for me. I tell her that she should have stayed where she landed and I would have found her. She says that the agreement was to meet where we had met before, and so she had made her way over to terminal 2 after her plane had landed, not realizing that there were 7 subterminals, all looking pretty much the same. She had thought that 2D looked familiar (it probably did, they all do) and had settled down to wait for me to pick her up there. When I didn't come by 10:45 she started to get worried, and thought that perhaps I had tried to meet her at terminal 1, and so convinced the information desk to have me paged.

I call Blaise to let him know that we're on our way back.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

In which we visit the Cantal

As I have mentioned before, Blaise has two friends named Sébastien. Both of them are philosophers of mathematics and both of them are currently in Clermont-Ferrand. Sébastien I
(and I feel like I'm writing some bizarre version of The Cat in the Hat here) invited us to his home for dinner on Tuesday night. Sébastien II invited us to spend the weekend at his family's country house in the Cantal.

Friday evening, after spending the afternoon trying to drive up the Puy-du-Dôme and being thwarted by heavy fog that closed the access road (not like we would have been able to see anything anyway), we drove over to Sébastien's house in the suburbs of Clermont-Ferrand and waited for Sébastien and his wife to return from work. Then we headed out for the 2 hour drive to the Cantal, switching up the adults so that each car had one adult who knew where they were going, and the preschoolers since it was by that time clear that Cherry would be miserable riding in the car without me. (As it was she sat in almost complete silence the entire ride in Cathy's car.)

We arrived at the house around 8 o'clock, and pulled the cars into the side yard. A description of the house: It was a traditional farmhouse for that part of France, with the shelter for people on one end and that for the livestock on the other. Perhaps at one time there was a communicating door between the two parts, but the barn had long since been sold and so there was no more. Upstairs were two large rooms, one set up as a bedroom and the second as a sitting room, as well as a toilet and a smaller room which was used primarily for drying laundry. Downstairs, accessible only by going outside, there was a large room which was part sitting room, part dining room, part kitchen, with a large fireplace to one side. Along the back wall were a toilet room and a bathroom, and opposite the fireplace were two smaller bedrooms, one for the children and one for the parents. We had the upstairs, though we didn't spend much time there, and Sébastien and Cathy and their kids, Octave and Sylvia, had the downstairs.

Although we had big plans for all of the things we wanted to do and see during our visit, most of them were thwarted by rainy weather, sick kids, and the desire to get back to Paris ahead of the worst of the returning spring break traffic. We did get to do some things though.

First of all, we got to visit Sébastien's cousins' farm, which was located a literal stones throw from the house. We fed grass clippings to their (enormous) rabbits, and saw their geese and chickens. Then we stopped to see the cows. Only the Salers cows were in the barn in the morning, but we could see all the calves in the back part of the barn. Then we walked across to the building where they make cheese, both cantal and salers, and put blue shoe covers on (to protect the cheese from the farmyard mud, of course) and watched as Sébastien's cousin explained the cheese making process to us.

First, the milk is pumped, still warm, under the "road" and into a huge wooden vat, where cultures are added and the milk is stirred. Once it forms curds, the whole mess is turned out onto a big metal table lined with cheesecloth, and a big press is applied to the top to squeeze out the whey. After it stops dripping, the curd is cut into big chunks and turned and the weight is reapplied. This is repeated 10 times to ensure that all of the whey is removed from the cheese. Next there are a bunch of steps which were carefully explained to me in French, involving cutting the cheese up into little pieces and putting it into buckets and then into a mold that said "Salers" on it. (Salers is made between mid April and mid November. Cantal is made the rest of the year.) After it is shaped in the mold, the cheese is laid on a shelf to ripen and turned regularly to ensure proper aging and the development of a good rind. And then of course comes the best and most important part: eating it!

Also, there was time for playing outside in the yard, or garden as they called it. Mostly this was because the amount of time it looked like rain was imminent was substantially more than the amount of time it actually rained. The little girls played in the sand box and the play house, and Sapphire and Ezio (and Octave when he was feeling OK) played rugby with Sébastien and Blaise.

Before dinner on Saturday we went back over to the farm to watch the cows being milked. The Salers cattle had been joined by lots of Holsteins and a few Montebeliards, and the Sapphire and Ezio had fun climbing and sliding on massive hay bales. Cherry contented herself with grabbing handfuls of hay from the ground and throwing it into the food trough in front of the cows.